MANALI + TERRY | Newlyweds Backpack Round The World » Thailand

Koh Lanta + Krabi + Rai Lei | Thailand :: Life Is a Beach

Terry — Sat, 26 Dec 2009 13:54:17 +0000

Our return to Thailand from Singapore, our second visit after a first go around of 4 weeks, left us a fresh 30 day visa. As it turned out, we would spend the remainder of our time exclusively at Thailand’s beaches, having already experienced Bangkok and Chiang Mai.

Cultural sites and excursions are limited, leaving the main attraction…beach life, and the consequential mood of relaxation, peaceful slumber and general lethargy quickly invades any prior routine you may have established. Simply put, for the previous month we have endured quite bravely the lifestyle of beach bums.

If you have ever wondered about a day in the life of beach bums, below is an example of what we have been up to for the majority of days for the last month or so in Thailand.

9:00 AM – Wake up

9:30 AM – Eat breakfast (usually cereal or granola bar)

10:00 AM – Take a dip in the ocean, explore the beach

12:00 PM – Eat lunch (PB&J with chips), drink a fresh fruit smoothie (current favorites are watermelon, pineapple or banana)

1:00 PM – Take a nap

2:00 PM – Read a book (currently reading “Shantaram” by Gregory David Roberts and “The Favored Child” by Philippa Gregory; we go through from 3 to 8 books a month!)

3:00 PM – Drive your scooter around town, shop, run errands to the post office, laundry and grocery store.

5:00 PM – Body-surf some waves

6:00 PM – Watch the sunset

6:30 PM – Eat dinner (usually Thai food, sometimes pizza or Mexican)

7:00 PM – Socialize with new friends and fellow beach bums while having beers at a beach bar (Thanks for coming out all the way from Dubai, Beccah Boo!)

10:00 PM – Retire for the night and do it all over again

It’s a hard life.

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Phuket | Thailand :: Hanging At The Beach…With Elephants!
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Koh Lanta | Thailand :: Angel Bungalows Review
15 December 2009 4:22 AM | 16136 Comments2009-12-15+11%3A22%3A06Manali
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Koh Lanta | Thailand :: Angel Bungalows Review

Manali — Tue, 15 Dec 2009 11:22:06 +0000

In Koh Lanta, we stayed on the south end of Long Beach, one of the more popular beaches of the island. We stumbled across Angel Bungalows run by Than and Bun, a wonderful couple that built each bungalow themselves over a span of 6 months! Although the Thai style bungalows had fans (no A/C), they were extremely spacious (king sized beds) and immaculately clean, surrounded by coconut trees and a short walk to the ocean. We were lulled to sleep by chirping crickets and croaking frogs each night and truly felt the Thai “no worries” lifestyle. A must stay on Koh Lanta!

Cost: 400 baht per night
Cleanliness: A+
Internet: Café around the corner charged 30B / hour
Location: B; down the street from Korner Bar; have to rent a moped to get to the “action”.

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Koh Lanta + Krabi + Rai Lei | Thailand :: Life Is a Beach
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Koh Tao | Thailand :: A Lifetime of Memories

Terry — Wed, 02 Dec 2009 13:00:28 +0000

Our lengthy journey to Koh Tao began as we left Singapore, bound once again for Phuket. After an evening at your favorite guest house on Patong Beach, Re’s Guesthouse, we were picked up early the next morning, the beginning of a long day. Travel in Southern Thailand is a large mix of minibus (minvan), buses and tuk tuks. The minibuses and buses cover your longer distances, and tuk tuks (flatbed trucks in these parts) fill in the remaining travel gap within localities.

All is well in a day of travel. Below is an example of our itinerary for our trip from Phuket to Koh Samui, the hop off point to Koh Tao.

7:15 AM – Hotel Pick-Up (Minibus)
12:00 PM – Arrive in Surat Thani
1:30 PM – Depart for Surat Thani Pier (Public Bus / No AC)
2:45 PM – Arrive at Surat Thani Pier
3:40 PM – Depart Ferry to Koh Samui
5:20 PM – Arrive at Koh Samui Pier
5:40 PM – Depart Koh Samui Pier (Tuk Tuk – Flatbed Truck)
6:40 PM – Arrive at Hotel in Lamai Beach

So you can see, a good day can be completely swallowed up in travel. Fortunately, our destination made it worth every minute. Taking a tuk tuk from the pier, we ended up being dropped off at Lamai Beach. Manali knew this to be one of the quieter beaches on the island, but was still excellent for swimming and strolling through the sand. We’ve also fallen in love with our motorbike rentals, so our first order of business was to procure a bike and explore Koh Samui.

After a few days of relaxation in the slow roll that is life on Lamai Beach, it was time to pick-up Kunal (Manali’s Brother) from Koh Samui Airport. Just like the locals, we maneuvered to the airport with our motorbike to retrieve Kunal and his luggage. Once landed, we piled Kunal onto the small remainder of seat space, and the three of us, fastened upon our steady stead made the 45 minute ride back to Lamai Beach without incident.

At Lamai we packed our bags, and hopped onto the waiting Minibus, transferring our group to the pier for the Koh Tao Ferry. After a 2 hour journey with comfortable seats and good air conditioning, we arrived excited in Koh Tao, anticipating an adventurous experience.

Based on research and recommendations, we knew that Ban’s Diving Resort offered great certifications packages at reasonable prices. Ban’s also had an excellent reputation, and we were not disappointed. We checked in immediately upon arrival, and started our open water course that evening.

When you’re not studying your PADI dive manual, you do have time for other things like enjoying island sunsets, and wining and dining on the sands of beautiful beaches.

If you are on Koh Tao, you should be diving. If you are not, it is quite expensive for accommodations. Most resorts seem to provide discounted or free lodging for students, concurrent with their courses. Our accommodations only cost 300 baht per night total, for Kunal, Manali and I. The rooms were nice, and although some are quite basic you have the option to pay slightly more to secure something to your standards.

Our open water and advanced courses lasted six days altogether, and we were fortunate to have two wonderful instructors, Belynda and Jonathan, as well as a great group of fellow students that made the experience so memorable.

Anyone in the world can dive, if you desire something unique, fun and memorable to add to that list of great vacations or excursions, add Koh Tao. We are not experienced enough to know if the dive sites of Koh Tao are the most remarkable in the world, but the Ban’s certification program and instructors are truly world class.

Our open water and advanced courses required 9 dives all together. Most of the open water dives were heavily concentrated on skill tests and improving your comfort and capabilities above and below the surface. The 5 advanced dives simply sought to improve those lessons.

Included in our advanced dives, was a deep dive, taking us down 30 meters below the surface. This was particularly inspiring since we performed it at one of the more active and visually entertaining dive sites in Koh Tao, Chumpon Pinnacle.

Down deep, we also had the opportunity to witness a few bull sharks, each about 2 to 2.5 meters in length. Swimming within sight of a shark, with the realization that you have no protective gear, and you are in that creatures natural habitat is a thrilling and surreal experience. I think Manali was actually more excited than I when first seeing them, which was relieving. We also were able to take in huge schools of barracudas, blue spotted string rays and trigger fish among many more.

Possibly just as surreal as swimming with sharks, was the night dive. Pitch black waters at first, the underwater environment bears her fruit as your eyes adjust to the light, mesmerizing you in her space like bosom. Turning off your light, and a flutter of your arms or legs to swirl the water reveals a fluid motion of bioluminescence that becomes your private fireworks show.

Thank you to Ban’s Diving resort, and Belynda and Jonathan our instructor’s, for an amazing adventure and a once in a lifetime experience!

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Koh Phi Phi | Thailand: A Piece of Paradise
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Koh Tao | Thailand: A Diver’s Delight

Terry — Sun, 29 Nov 2009 14:00:25 +0000

Manali and I had an absolutely wonderful week in Koh Tao, all the while spending a good part of each day in the six we were there earning our Advance Open Water Diver certification. You can see more about our stay here, but I thought I would let the video do the talking for now in this post. Hope you enjoy and hope it inspires!

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Koh Phi Phi | Thailand: A Piece of Paradise

Terry — Tue, 24 Nov 2009 13:36:14 +0000

Following stints in Bangkok, Chiang Mai and Phuket, we were anxious to get a taste of remote island life. Sure, Phuket is technically an island, but the attitude and characteristics you find there are not quite those associated with a laid back island personality you might find in Koh Phi Phi for example. Phuket is a tourist mecca, but Koh Phi Phi doesn’t even allow motorized vehicles. Sound cool? We thought so, thus we purchased tickets for 600 baht/person to take us to Phi Phi. This is the first time we started to truly embrace the many tourist agencies you can find at every street corner in Thailand. Prices we have found are competitive, and services are provided as promised.

Our ferry arrived in Koh Phi Phi Don, the north island, in the early afternoon, leaving plenty of time to find accommodation. Pulling into the pier, we actually stepped down into a foot of water off of the ferry platform. For whatever reason, they decided not to use the pier to let us disembark. The crystal clear waters, and the blue hue it wore so beautifully put smiles on our faces, as we realized we were truly living in the post cards we have seen all our lives.

The first thing you notice on Koh Phi Phi is that no motorized vehicles are permitted. Transport is restricted to your own two feet, and carts are used to haul baggage, and supplies. Everything on the island, is within a 20-30 minute walking distance, and paved paths guide your way.

Reasonable accommodations and great restaurants can be found along any street. We love a particular restaurant, Khun Va, and ate there several times. Their red curry is amazing.

There are quite a few options for activities in Koh Phi Phi, if you are in the mood. We opted for a day tour visiting the most popular areas in the surrounding islands. Taking the afternoon trip, we were ferried via a longtail boat from 11:00 to 6:30 to Bamboo Island, Monkey Beach and Maya Bay among other sites. The trip also included lunch, and snorkeling equipment. Stopping several times, we had opportunities for off the boat snorkeling and had plenty of time at each location. The trip was a great value at 450 baht/person.

Bamboo Island was our first stop on the tour, and it was absolutely beautiful. Unspoiled by tourists and locals alike, as no one lives there, it is a great place to pick a spot on the beach and imagine it as your own private island. You can actually arrange to camp in the island.

If you’ve ever watched the movie The Beach, then you’ve seen Koh Phi Phi Lae, the south island. No one lives on the island, and it holds Maya Bay, among its beauties. Maya Bay is a beautiful beach hugged on either side by encroaching mountains, creating a bay of protection and solitude.

The longtail boat in Thailand is the quintessential water vehicle of Thailand, especially among the islands.

Our trip included several stops for snorkeling. Each location gave us about 45 minutes to an hour to dive in and take in the natural beauty. The water was beautiful and clear, offering views of the coral and fish even from the perch of the boat.

Since a movie was filmed here, we couldn’t help memorializing our visit with a little extra creativity.

Probably the most hysterically funny thing we’ve experienced in the last couple of weeks was during our visit to Monkey Beach. The monkey’s pretty much take over the beach, meeting visitors to accept their share of bananas and other goodies. The funny started when some Japanese tourists fell victim to the harassment of the beach monkey gang. Probably one of those had to be there moments, but you can get an idea from the video above.

We were fortunate enough to meet up with Ritu and Sahir, friends of friends, who happened to be in Koh Phi Phi at the same time. They were great and we had a lot of fun with them the couple of days we were in Phi Phi. Ritu was able to celebrate her birthday in style with some fire limbo and Sahir schooled on the elegance of bidet’s and the lifestyle a good Toto can provide.

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M & T’s Top 11 of 2011 | Beaches & Islands of Thailand
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Phuket | Thailand: Visa Expired!

Terry — Sun, 22 Nov 2009 13:37:56 +0000

Oh no! We had a slight scare today, and as always seems to be the case run we run into trouble Manali and I immediately into our bad cop / good cop roles. Guess which one I am? Manali is so sweet, she flutters her eyes and rounds our her lips in helpless expression…and I on the other hand, well you can imagine.

So was the case as we went through immigration to board our flight today to Singapore, but only briefly. We pulled out our make shift calendars and counted our 30 days down, with agitated mutterings and a sureness that we were being shaken down as the agent demanded 500 Baht each for a one day overstay of our visa.

In the end, I luckily only grumbled to myself and our assumption of 30 days being from October 6th to November 5th was clearly wrong. Note for next time. A relatively expensive mistake, but glad to pay the money and be done with it. I was wondering if they were going to detain us, and was releived. Hopefully they will let us back into the country as we have a flight back to Phuket in 4 days!

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Phuket | Thailand :: Hanging At The Beach…With Elephants!

Terry — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 13:35:56 +0000

After a 14 hour train ride from Chiang Mai to Bangkok, and a quick hour and a half flight from Bangkok to Phuket, we were at the beach baby! Phuket could not have come any sooner, and I think we were expecting a lot and finally ready to do some real lazing about, with no agendas and a lot of downtime.

Let me first get out of the way, the biggest gripe, although it will probably only apply to budget types like backpackers. Phuket is a tourist capital, and everyone here is trying to get as much from you as they can, especially if you are staying at a resort. They know you have money to spend, and don’t mind taking you for a ride, or two, to get some more of it. Hired transportation on the island is also very expensive relative to the rest of Thailand. The Thai Mafia or something like it, apparently controls many of the tuk tuks, and they are notorious for organized strikes and civil disobedience to get their way. This means no regulation, little accountability and consequently you get ripped off. So is life in Phuket I suppose.

The beaches here for the most part are really great. The sand is typically fine, and pretty clean. Patong beach is very popular, but the beach although wide in length is not very deep and right along a busy road. Not very relaxing. Rent a scooter for 200-300 Baht a day, and adventure to some of the other beaches. All the beaches on the west side, for example Kamala and Bangtao are great, and more quiet.

Manali and I were excited to see the beautiful blue waters, with wonderful clarity at some of the beaches on Phuket. It rained a couple of days we were there, so opportunities for clear waters and great sunsets were limited. Despite the fact it is October / November, the weather remains scorching. You learn to deal with a constant sweat over your body. The breeze off of the ocean does help though when it is blowing.

One of the few decent sunsets we were able to catch. So far we have either been on the move, or didn’t have the view to take in a nice sunset. We’re hoping that changes soon, and our itinerary for the next month, as we will be at beaches for at least that long, looks promising.

The place we stayed, Phuket Laguna, was a pretty neat place, providing everything you could ever want, leaving you to concentrate on your tan. Another great perk they threw in, was the resort elephants, Lucky and Lily. We had no clue these beautiful creatures were going to be here prior to arriving, but having just come from Chiang Mai, with elephants still fresh in our minds, we were thrilled.

Mahouts would escort these two baby elephants out every morning to join guests in the breakfast area, and then in the afternoon down at the beach. Our first morning, Manali was sleeping in, as she does quite religously, and I headed to breakfast to pick something up. As I was turning to corner, here walks by Lily the elephant, carrying a trash bag, tossing it into the nearest collection can. Lily and Lucky were even smaller than the baby elephants we knew in Chiang Mai, so to us they of course were extra adorable. The Mahouts were really great as usual, and the experience again was very casual.

Elephants continue to amaze us, and here is an example where I’m getting kisses from Lucky. She takes her trunk, wraps it around your neck pulling you in snugly and with her little snout gives you little puffs of suction. We couldn’t help giggling and laughing like little kids. If you wanted a picture, Lucky or Lily would take a particular pose, lifting up their trunk, straightening our their right front foot, and bending her right rear over the left rear.

Based on transportation costs of any other kind, the absolute best way to go is renting a scooter. Initially we were very cautious and hesitant to even take on the venture. Although dorky looking, we did get helmets which was some comfort, as we knew the hardest part would be navigating the traffic. We were only partly correct in that assessment.

Our first night we set forth for Patong beach, from Bangtao, a 30 minute ride south. We were a little surprise to find out we had to traverse several mountainous passes, ascending steeply to thickly vegetated overlooks, descending to the beaches and towns of below, one after the other. Throw in the fact that these roads ascending and descending peel right or peel off left curving quickly there and here leaves you wondering how much you can take. Then a huge downpour hit us about 10 minutes before we arrived in Patong beach on the scooter. We were soaked from head to toe in 30 seconds, shivering and cursing our luck. The rain didn’t trail off until late that night leaving us to ride back the entire way belted by wind and rain. A first nights experience like that leaves you a pro, and the next two days brought good weather and good miles on our trusty and fun scooter.

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Chiang Mai | Thailand: Sleeper Train Returning To Bangkok

Terry — Sun, 15 Nov 2009 04:50:00 +0000

After a wonderful stay in Chiang Mai, we reluctantly packed our bags again to head back to Bangkok for our flight to Phuket. Nothing much to say here, but wanted to document a little bit about the sleeper trains in Thailand. Thailand will be the second country in which we have experienced the train network, second to China. The trains in Thailand are not quite as nice and clean as those in China, the ones we experienced anyway, but they are by comparison far roomier. To be accurate, this description only applies to the cabin and seat area itself. We have found when it comes to the bathrooms or dinner cars, any sort of cleanliness or neatness is thrown out the train window.

Unlike trains in China, those in Thailand are not altogether very timely in keeping with their schedule. For example, on the sleeper train from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, was stated as a 13 hour trip, but turned out to be 16 hours. Not a huge matter for us, but if you have any connecting transportation, this could turn into a real headache. Also, make sure you ask questions and have an awareness about which stop you coming to, as no one really tells you, and they like to push you out the minute the train stops, so there is not a lot of time when it comes to discerning whether your desired destination is the current or not.

Your journey begins with upright seats, and as the evening hour approaches the attendant will come by, and perform a pull down service for both the upper and lower birth, putting down sheets, blankets, pillow cases and curtains.

Our train tickets were purchased directly from the State Railway of Thailand website. The pair of our tickets each way was about 1,600 Baht. There is a slight price difference between upper and lower birth, but if you are buying tickets in pairs, they assign one of each automatically. If you are buying solo, DEFINITELY buy the lower birth if possible. Upper is very narrow and the lights, which aren’t turned off at night glare in your face as you try to sleep.

Website: http://www.thairailwayticket.com/Default.aspx?language=1

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Chiang Mai | Thailand: Monk Chat

Terry — Sat, 14 Nov 2009 06:53:30 +0000

As noted earlier, Thailand is covered extensively with temples and they can literally be found on nearly every street corner. Having initially experienced temples in Thailand, we were interested to see what temples were like in Chiang Mai, the former capital of Thailand.

Temples in Chiang Mai at least by appearance provide a greater historic quality, closer to original construction and with more disrepair than most temples in Bangkok. I think we enjoyed the more rustic appearances, especially since it contrasted with what we had already seen.

Unlike Bangkok, Chiang Mai also has a very soft side, with a laid back attitude and a more relaxed and slow pace. We actually rented a bicycle for the day, yes one bicycle, Manali on the back, and past the first apprehensive moments was just fine riding through the city trailing through cars, trucks and the like. People seemed a little bit friendlier and outgoing here in Chiang Mai as well. In Bangkok, you have to maintain skepticism in everything you are told, as someone is constantly trying to get one over on you. Don’t fear, as if you do fall victim it is not for more than a couple of dollars, but still the principle matters, and the diligence and scrutiny required to repel that kind of deviant behavior is tiring. We really relaxed and let our guard down in Chiang Mai, and the people, the local culture and their attitudes of generosity, honesty and kindness were completely responsible.

Possibly due to the more relaxed nature of Chiang Mai, we were able to experience a Monk chat, which we had been keeping our eyes out for, and may just not have noticed in Bangkok. It is likely you will be able to find an easily accessible Monk to chat with wherever you are located in Chiang Mai, as they seem very prevalent. We stayed within the city walls, so for sure with that geography we noticed many temples advertising, in English, monk chats. So why offer such a thing? Well, it is mainly so these Monks, who are scholars, in addition to religious devotees, to learn English. Perhaps it is just a personal interest for some, but others see it as a continuation of their learning and enlightenment.

Manali and I took the time to sit down with Monk Lung, who was originally from Cambodia. We discussed our different cultures, personal philosophies and got to understand a bit about what makes up a typical day in the life of a Monk. Our conversation was great, as our Monk was a self confessed rebel of sorts, and conversing came easy. We felt comfortable to ask anything and everything, and Monk Lung really gave us a surprise when he proclaimed that he had a Facebook account!

Fancy a chat with a Monk of your own? Just look for the signs displayed prevalently the courtyards to any of the temples. Happy chatting!

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Chiang Mai | Thailand: Schoolyard Takraw

Terry — Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:48:39 +0000

Growing up, I pretty much played soccer year round, and it was my best sport, although I played basketball, baseball and a little football as well. Manali and I were walking today down the street passed a little schoolyard, and in a brilliant yet quick recollection, watching these kids we saw wish I could go back and do it all again. This time with the vigor and ability we saw in the kids.

There is a short video clip above that you have to watch, and it is a game called Takraw. The skill on display left us standing watching for a good 15 minutes, and probably had the kiddos thinking we were a bit nutty to be standing their video taping the action. And don’t get the impression that those scissor kicks happen once a game, its like every 2 minutes and one of these kids is doing a mid air kick. Amazing!

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